4 STAR REVIEW FOR OPUS 5!
By DONALD KIMM Special Correspondent for South Sun-Sentinel
July 4, 2008
Burt Rapoport's 25 years as a restaurateur is evident in every aspect of the dining experience at Opus 5. With effortless precision, the evening flows smoothly, allowing diners to relax, converse and simply enjoy.The elegant decor and upscale-attired staff imply exclusiveness, but servers exude hospitality and confidence, not arrogance. Our server described the menu like a proud parent.The menu features myriad hot and cold small plates to be enjoyed tapas style. A current special offers five for the price of four. Hot plate items include Thai chicken wings, rock shrimp tempura, calamari with roasted tomatoes and Kobe beef mini burgers.We sampled the lobster and crab summer roll ($14), hamachi and yellowfin tuna ceviche ($14) and classic steak tartare ($13) from the cold plates. All were phenomenal. But the steak tartare was my favorite. Served with all the prerequisite garnishes, the beef melts in your mouth.
The entree menu is a refined and innovative balance of East meets West. Most dishes are American, but have a well-crafted Asian or Pacific Rim influence through the use of delicate seasonings or Eastern accessories. For example, Crispy Free Range Long Island Duckling ($27) is plated with a scallion pancake and stir-fried vegetables and Crispy Colossal Shrimp ($23) is paired with steamed bok choy.Don't miss Miso Chili Marinated Skirt Steak ($28). The miso marinade intensifies the flavor of the beef. The chilies are a mere suggestion; there is no lingering burn. The dish is accompanied by shiitake mushrooms, home-fried potatoes and thin, crispy fried onions.Togarashi Roasted Scallops ($29) are large, succulent and dusted with a complex and delicate seven-spice Japanese blend that gives the tender scallops an underlying flavor of sesame and citrus. Plated with edamame, mushrooms and asparagus, this dish was a table pleaser.I could not decide on an entree so I asked the server to surprise me and received Miso Glazed Chilean Sea Bass ($33). It's now on my top five list of best seafood dishes. Nestled atop steamed baby bok choy and surrounded by shiitake and enoki mushrooms, the moist and delicate fish approaches perfection. The miso glaze adds the right amount of savory saltiness.From the dozen sides, Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchi ($8) are excellent. House-made and tossed in browned butter, herbs and parmesan cheese, these wonderful pasta morsels are also part of the Maine Lobster Bolognese ($34), a dish I look forward to trying on my next visit.Desserts are created in-house and are so outstanding that it's worth the trip simply for coffee and sweets.Cheesecake Lollipops ($18) are a stunning presentation. Bite-size morsels of cake are skewered on sticks and dressed in various finishes.For Almond Joy, the cake is dipped in dark chocolate and rolled in coconut. These joyful treats are presented on an artful silver wire tree sculpture, which is also studded with fresh berries. Several dipping sauces are included as a decadent finishing touch.
www.Opus5bocaraton.com
Write to dining correspondent Donald Kim at http://foodie@fishsticks.cc/ or in care of the Sun-Sentinel.■■■■Cuisine: American









